Frogger

Cities in this part of the world are like nothing that I have seen before.  The population density in SE Asian cities is far beyond anything in the US, with maybe the exception of New York.  People are everywhere, which explains the driving habits of Vietnam.  It took us a while to learn the rules and there have been many near-death experiences, but after a few weeks, it is clear that what appears mass chaos on the roads is really a very synchronized affair.

The cause of the mayhem is the motopai, as they are called here (shortened to moto).  They are something between a scooter and motorcycle and they are ubiquitous.  Motopai are a lot to Vietnamese.  They are transportation, yes, but much more.  No young man could expect to get married without one.  They serve as taxis, to haul an amazing amount of goods, and even as beds.

The issue of the motopai and traffic isn’t that drivers don’t follow any of the rules.  It is true that rules aren’t followed but that isn’t the problem.  The problem is just that there are so many of them.  If they did follow any rules, traffic would grind to a screeching halt.  The written rules are summarily ignored to the betterment of the flow of traffic.  But there are rules, although unwritten, and a failure to follow those rules invites catastrophe.

The first rule is that might makes right.  The pedestrian gets out of the way of the moto, the moto of the car, and the car of the truck.  The bigger will not stop for the smaller.  The second is that crosswalks are decorative only.  They provide no protection and have no other function other than to trick white people into getting hit.  Another rule is that I, the driver, will do exactly what I want to do when I want to do it, regardless of those around me.  Finally, the most important rule is to honk at all times.  In the US, one honks when they are angry at someone or to avoid an accident.  In Vietnam, it is best to honk at each inhalation of breath.  It is also good to honk upon exhaling.  Drivers honk at everything the pass and every pedestrian anywhere nearby.  They honk as they approach a corner or if there is any delay in the slightest.  At stoplights, if they are followed, people begin honking well before the light turns green to preempt any sluggishness in starting.

At first, I found the honking to be rude, but then I realized that isn’t its intent.  Quite has no value in Vietnam and honking is just part of driving.  It is unsafe not honk when passing here because drivers don’t look—they wait for the honk.  It is unbelievably annoying, how much honking happens and it makes a Vietnamese street one of the loudest places I have ever been.

Crossing a street is an acquired skill that relies as much on trust as it does on vision.  Here is how it works.  As a pedestrian, there are often 3 lanes on each side of the street for a total of 6 lanes.  Waiting for a break of six lanes of traffic where people don’t follow lights or street signs means that you might as well set up permanent residence on that corner.  You just have to start walking.  This rule is important and unique to Vietnam.  It is the law of predictive motion.  A blind person is best equipped to cross a Vietnam street.  When a pedestrian is crossing the street, the motopai driver makes a decision based on where that person will be, given their heading when the bike meets pedestrian.  Usually, they will aim directly at the person knowing that in another second, the person will have moved past that spot.

You can see the problem when white people get involved.  We are taught that if a car is coming, stop and wait.  The Vietnamese assume you will not wait and aim for you.  Never stop in a Vietnam intersection.  We had to learn that one the hard way.  (Interestingly, Cambodia is not this way, which was also learned the hard way.)

Otherwise, there are no rules.  When the street gets too crowded, motos take to the sidewalks.  One time in Saigon, I actually found it far safer to walk down the middle of street than on the sidewalk because at least in the street the traffic moves in one direction per lane.  The weird thing was that no one thought it odd that I was walking down the street.  Interestingly, I have become pretty proficient on the moto myself, as that is the best way to get around and see the sights.  I never thought myself of much of a motorcycle rider, but man they are fun.  They are like bicycles without the sweating, and I love bicycles!